Copyright, Lynn DT Hershberger 2005

Mom's Fast Florida Footies by LynnH Note: this pattern has been on the web in one size, for free, for several years. I fully intend that it will continue to be available in this same one-size format (ladies' extra-small), for no charge. It is my way of providing you a chance to experience my pattern-writing style... before you dive in and buy my patterns. However, for those who wish sizing information and specific instructions for eight sizes-- Infant 0-1 / 2-3, (Child 8-9 / 10-11), [Woman's XS / S / M / L]-- I now have a for-purchase pattern available, five pages of high-quality print on good white paper and in a plastic page protector. The printed version of the pattern is $6.00 USD plus $1 postage. I accept PayPal (or credit card payments, processed through the PayPal system, even if you do not have a PayPal account)... or check/money order from many places (in US funds). If you click either of the links in this text box, it will take you to my shopping cart where you can place your order. Click link for Shopping Cart to purchase Printed Version in 8 Sizes. Printing hint: If your browser cuts off the text on the right when you print, go to File/Page Setup in your browser (Internet Explorer/Netscape/Mozilla... you might have to click a "tab" at the top of that box to get to the margins) and change the margins to .5" on the right and left. This should work for most printers. If you have further problems, write to me and I can send you the text of this page in an email message. This sock is fast and a delightful gift! I can finish a pair in one focused day of knitting. (OK, so I knit fast!) Even if you knit slower, it will be an enjoyable and speedy process. The pattern as written is for a woman's extra-small size (my Mom wears a size 5 US shoe). You can make it longer easily, and because of the stretch in the yarn I used (Cascade Fixation cotton/lycra) it is forgiving if you don't have exact measurements available. A big thank you to all those who have knit this pattern and provided feedback. If you finish a sock from this pattern, do please write me at Socks@LynnH.com and I will put a picture of your sock on my weblog, ColorJoy! Extra big thanks to the proofreading input from Kadri, Larry/KnitDad and Teri (among others whose names I have unfortunately lost). The input has made this pattern more accurate and clear. Gauge: 25 stitches = 4 inches (Stockinette). Needle Size: Start swatching your stranded knitting on US 2/ 2.75mm needles, adjusting for your own personal gauge. WARNING: This elastic yarn is very different in gauge for every knitter. (I get 25st/4" or 6.25 st/inch with size 2 US needles as did at least one of my knitters. However, two other test knitters got 33st/4" or 8.25st/inch on the same needles, thus had to go up to size 4 to get gauge.) On top of that, it changes pretty drastically in gauge after washing, mine changed a full stitch per inch after a bath. Please do yourself a favor and swatch this yarn *in the round,* and wash the swatch before you start. Some people find they end up with too-small socks if they do not swatch. You don't want to waste all that effort, do you? Yarn: I used one skein of Cascade Fixation (sportweight). Other sportweight yarns might be Jawoll sport, or Regia Crazy 6-ply. The Fixation has much more stretch than the other yarns mentioned even if knit at the same gauge, however. CAST ON Cast on 44 stitches, using your favorite method (I used the long tail cast on). Distribute onto 3 or 4 needles. Join in a ring, being careful not to twist stitches around needles. ROLLED CUFF Rounds 1-7: Knit all stitches. Round 8: *K1, Slip 1 (yarn in back)*, repeat until end. This keeps the cuff from rolling too far. Round 9: Knit all stitches. LynnH NO-PURL HEEL: FLAP Re-distribute stitches so that half (I have 22) are on needle #1. This will become your heel flap, no breaking of yarn required. Place remaining stitches on needles or waste yarn to hold until gusset and instep are worked. Notes: All slipped stitches are slipped as if to purl unless noted otherwise. This is a no-purl flap, not standard heel stitch. If you choose to use reinforcing thread, add it now. If you are adjusting stitch count for another size, the no-purl flap should be an even number, which when divided by two is an odd number. (Try 22, 26, 30, etc.) Two Transition Rows: A) Knit all 22 stitches on Needle 1. Turn sock physically around, to knit flap flat. (You will resume knitting circularly after turning the heel.) B) With yarn in front, Slip 1, pass yarn to back, Knit all remaining stitches back to where you started, and turn the sock around again. Row 1: With yarn in front, Slip 1, pass yarn to back, K1. *Slip 1, K1* until end (always knit last stitch in row). Turn sock around. Row 2: With yarn in front, Slip 1, pass yarn to back, Knit remaining stitches (don't purl). Turn sock. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have a heel flap measuring 2-1/4" to 3", depending on the height of your own heel/instep. (It should measure just longer than the height from floor to the indentation between your heel and ankle at the back of your foot). End with a knit (no slip) even-numbered row. I had 28 rows including the two transition rows. (Note: in earlier versions, this erroneously said I had 26 rows, although any number will work depending on your own foot.) LynnH NO-PURL HEEL: TURN Notes: If you have done my No-Purl heel before, this is a slightly different version. Instructions are for the heel stitch pattern to continue in the heel turn. This choice makes a cohesive design and is springy underfoot. Place marker at middle of heel flap. Row 1 (right side): With yarn in front, Slip 1, move yarn to back, *K1, Sl 1* until you have worked 4 sts past marker (or 15 sts). The last stitch should be a slip. K2tog; turn sock physically around so that the inside faces TOWARD you. You should not have finished all the stitches in the row. Row 2 (inside): With yarn in front, Sl 1, move yarn to back, snug edge (slipped) stitch by tugging working yarn. Knit to 4 sts past marker (in other words, K8 sts), K2Tog through back loop, turn. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until all stitches are decreased, snugging edge slip stitch each time you turn. Finish with row 2. You should end up with 2 stitches more than the heel band width (I had an 8 stitch band and I ended up with 10 stitches on the needle). If you have been using reinforcing thread, discontinue it now. GUSSET STITCH PICK-UP: At this point we resume knitting in the round. Round 1: With yarn in front, Slip 1, move yarn to back, continue to knit across half the total heel stitches (5 stitches on this needle in my case), which will become your final needle. Start a new needle (#1). Knit across the rest of heel flap (5 more stitches). Continuing with same needle, pick up stitches from the side of the heel flap (1 stitch in every chain stitch on the edge). For me, I had 28 rows so I picked up 14 stitches, ending up with 19 sts on needle #1. Knit all stitches across instep, using 1 or 2 needles to hold instep stitches, as you prefer. (I had 22 stitches on my instep needle.) With final needle, pick up and knit the same number of stitches from the side of the heel flap as on the first needle. Continuing with the same needle, knit the few stitches you started with (I have 5) onto this final needle. If you are using my stitch count, it should now be 60 stitches (i.e., 19,22,19). GUSSET DECREASE: Note: I am purling the bottom 18 sole stitches, to make the sportweight yarn more comfortable underfoot. Place a marker 9 stitches from the center sole, on your first and last needles, to remind you to purl these stitches. Round 1: (I consider Round 1 to be the round where you picked up the gusset stitches, as it makes counting easier while you decrease.) Round 2: Needle #1: Purl 9 stitches (until you reach marker), Knit until there are 3 stitches left on the needle, K2 tog, K1. Instep Needle(s): K all stitches. Final Needle: K1, SSK, Knit until you reach marker, Purl final 9 stitches. Round 3: Purl 9 stitches, Knit until you reach second marker on final needle, Purl final 9 stitches in round. Continue to repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until you have 44 stitches remaining (11 on first and final needles). FOOT: *Purl 9 stitches, Knit until you reach second marker on final needle, Purl final 9 stitches in round.* Repeat until you reach 1-3/4" to 2" from your desired foot length. TOE: If you choose to use reinforcing thread, add it now. Make sure you have divided stitches in half, with the same number on instep needle(s) and on "sole of foot needles." In my case, I have 22 on top of foot (one needle, but you could choose 2) and 22 on sole, split between 2 needles. Round 1: a) Starting at middle of heel, Purl until 3 stitches from end of needle. K2tog, K1. b) On instep needle(s) K1, SSK, Knit until 3 stitches from end of instep, K2tog, K1. c) On final needle, K1, SSK, Purl to end of round. Round 2: Needle 1, Purl until 2 stitches remain, Knit 2 stitches. Instep Needle(s), Knit all stitches. Final Needle: Knit 2 stitches, Purl to end of round. Round 3: Repeat Round 2. (Two plain rounds here creates a nicer shape on the toe.) Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 only until you have 28 total stitches. (Note: in earlier versions, this erroneously said repeat Rounds 2 and 3.) Repeat Round 1 only until 4-12 stitches remain and length is appropriate for your foot. Consider using a smaller needle for the last 1-3 rounds. Break yarn leaving a long tail (about 1 foot). Thread tail in blunt needle and work in a loop through remaining stitches, twice (this fills in the loops more firmly, for better wear). Remove knitting needles and pull end snug. Work end through to inside of sock with blunt needle, and finish all ends.   Lynn D. Troldahl Hershberger (AKA LynnH) Since LynnH was a toddler, she has been focused on bright color (preferring magenta and purple crayons). For many years, she has lived surrounded by color in any way she can: painting the porch purple, painting stars on her car and spirals on her thermos, creating with polymer clay, printmaking, feltmaking, knitting and dyeing wool yarns. Visit LynnH's SockTour and other delights at http://www.LynnH.com, or write to her at Socks@LynnH.com Checks and correspondence to: ColorJoy by LynnH, PO Box 26261, Lansing, MI 48909-6261 USA