Fun, Fun, Fun!!!!! That’s how my Friday night went. It couldn’t have been better.
I got a beautiful dance dress in Cairo, the week of Christmas 2004. I’ve danced two concerts since then, but both required specific costuming that did not allow me to wear the dress. I’ve been a little bummed about it. I love clothes, just as a sparkly-girl who loves shiny things would be expected to… and not being able to wear something new for over 4 months was difficult.
Yes, I’m spoiled. Yes, I’m a diva at times. I like to dress up and look pretty. I like to transform myself from just-plain-Lynn to Diva-Eudora. It’s really a rush to do the Theatre thing and become someone else for a while. Especially, as you can guess, if it involves really pretty, shiny, turquoise dress-up clothes.
I’m really still about 3 years old inside, but don’t tell anyone. I’m doing the same thing as the dress-up we did on Grandma Illa’s farm. (Karen, my cousin, reads this blog sometimes… Karen, do you remember the long gloves and hats, too? Somewhere there are great photos of us dressing up at the farm.)
Check out the photos here with children in them. The little girl in pink followed me wherever I went, far enough to not even see her mommy anymore. At one point she reached out and almost touched my beads, she was so entranced. After the show was over I went over and let her touch the beads. The little boy came over and was waving his arms in the air dancing with me at one point. And the little girl who appears to be in white (it was light blue but that’s digital photography), came over, I let her hold my hands, and then she would NOT let go.
She was strong! She had not one of my hands but both of them, and she would not let me twirl her around. She just wanted to look at me and my dress and she did not want to stop. The other customers seemed to appreciate it, but it sure did limit my ability to dance, to a few moves that involved hips and footwork. She was a doll.
I figure if I’m going to pelt you with a lot of photos of this dress (and Najmah, and the children), I might as well tell you the story of how I got the dress.
We went to Cairo the week of Christmas. We met our driver, Nabil, the next morning. Both Altu and I knew I wouldn’t rest until I had my new costume (I had been very careful with my money until that point, to be sure I’d have enough to afford a dress… they can cost $1,200 USD in the USA but I’d figured I’d find one around $400 in Egypt). Once I had my costume, we could just relax and enjoy being tourists.
The first day with Nabil, we went to Fishawi Coffeehouse for tea early in the morning. When we finished, the stores were not yet open at Khan el Khalili (I hope I spelled that well), which is the main market where dance clothing can be found. We went to the beautiful mosque across the street for a while, then went back to the market.
I tried on dozens of costumes that day. It was exhausting! Although Nabil was not great at English (we knew virtually no Arabic… just hello and thank you), I got across the colors and styles I liked best over the course of the day. We went from little tiny booth in a basement to little tiny booth in a loft, back behind shops in twisted corridors, all sorts of tiny holes in the wall. We would tell them what I liked, and they would disappear, sometimes for a long while, and then reappear with goodies for me to try.
It became apparent after a while, that folks in the market help each other out. I would ask for hot pink (or turquoise or purple) costumes, they would disappear. They would come to me with a tiny pink costume, about 30″ around if that. I couldn’t get it around one leg, I think! I’d decline, and we’d go to the next shop, where I’d be presented with the same too-small costume! I am guessing that shopkeepers share the sale profit if they help each other that way… one person finds the customer and the other provides the merchandise. I never did fit into that pink thing!
After what seemed like hours and hours, I was getting pretty tired of trying on costumes, none of which fit me well enough to spend $25, much less hundreds. I found myself in a nicer-than-most loft shop, basically a hallway with shelves on both sides, the stairway on one end and a window at the other. One wall had three costumes actually hanging there on display. The center one was a turquoise dress. It was beautiful, but I’d learned at least in the US, that those dresses were soooo long, both in length and waist, that I could not wear them. There is beaded trim on the hem so it is nearly impossible to alter these dresses.
However, I was so tired of trying on that I decided to give the beautiful turquoise dress a shot. I tried it on over my clothes. It was beautiful! They found me a kitchen on the third-level floor where they were doing construction, where I could change without being disturbed.
I came back to the shop dressed properly, they even put on some dance music, and I danced around the shop. The dress was perfect. Those in the room all agreed that it looked as though it were made for me. Nabil exclaimed “You dance like an Egyptian!” This is a very high compliment, indeed. I let him know that I was lucky to have a very good teacher at home who teaches us to dance the Egyptian style. She has studied dance in Egypt and from Egyptian teachers in the US. We all agreed that the dress was perfect, and I looked great dancing in it.
I was changing out of the dress, Nabil’s voice came around the corner. He said: “My lady, you can not have that dress.” I asked why. He said it was too expensive. We had to translate from Egyptian Pounds to US Dollars, but it came out significantly less than the $400 I had budgeted. I tried to tell him that it was OK. He would not budge.
Poor man, probably the cost of that dress would feed his four children for months. It no doubt seemed impossible that I could spend that much. In fact, if I had not received the financial windfall that allowed my trip to Africa, I would not have been able to afford it even at the lower price. But Nabil would not allow me to get the dress right then. He insisted I go try on other things.
It was useless. I had no heart in any of the other things I tried on after that. But Nabil kept us shopping until the stores closed. We had to buy the dress another day.
We had already planned a trip to Giza and the Pyramids for the next day. We spent morning and part of the afternoon on that trip. When we got back to Cairo, we insisted… “Nabil, The Dress!!! Take us to the Dress!” We knew that we could not find it without his help. Thank goodness for me that he was clear that his job was to make us happy and take us where we wanted to go.
He obediently did what we asked. He argued with the shopkeepers because they would not bargain any on the price. He was angry because the dress seemed so expensive to him. Finally he told them that if they would not bargain on the price of the dress, they needed to give me a gift. They gave me some finger cymbals in silver, which matches some of the beads on my dress. That made Nabil feel a little better, I think.
On Christmas day I modeled the dress for Altu in our hotel room. She was very sweet, telling me how pretty I looked. It helped me to have her input… we both agreed it was the only thing I had tried on that was worth buying. I did wear it for my Habibi friends when I got home. But it was only last night when I actually got to wear it for dancing. And dance I did!!!
Photos: Me as Eudora dancing with a sparkly scarf I also got in Egypt. Dancing for Elizabeth Anderson, herself a busy dancer in the Lansing area. Two photos of me dancing for the children, aren’t they adorable? Mom and Fred watching the show. Full length photo of me dancing with scarf. Two photos of Najmah entertaining the crowd. Don’t you wish you had joined us???
All photos by my beloved, Brian Hefferan.